45 Comments

I realize this is not your point, but they also recently cut back pretty significantly on their plus size offerings which took them completely off my radar--so definitely a big misstep in my book. And the one thing I immediately noticed about the 2024 styling collage was a bit more diversity, in both skin color and body size. Inclusion is obviously not all that matters, and if the styling is bad it's bad. But personally I would rather buy from a brand that shows its clothes on different types of people rather than just tiny white girls. (Even though in this particular case I can't buy from them anyways!)

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Corinne, thanks for sharing some additonal interesting points! While I too have noticed the diversity in their campaigns and was excited to seem them evolve, it is so disheartening to hear that they have completely done away with their plus size offerings all together. So many brands have started elimiting these offerings and it really is such a shame. Old Navy used to designate an entire floor pad to their plus size consumer. Now a large portion of their top volume doors have put other categories in its place. It is incredinly disappointing.

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Yes! It’s such a bummer. To clarify, they haven’t completely eliminated plus sizes, but they cut the largest ones and seem to be making fewer styles in the remaining sizes.

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I think you've nailed both the styling (what's left to be desired) and going back to the well with Alexa Chung vs someone new. And I love the recommendation of Gracie Abrams because she is someone I can be inspired by even as "a mom" or a geriatric millennial and my gen alpha daughter could also find something cool to wear.

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Thank you! I’m so glad to hear you agree about Gracie and it’s interesting to hear your thoughts on how she caters toward a variety of ages!

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Not a fan of their new brand identity. So many other brands and designers occupy the minimalist, “quiet luxury” space already. Madewell’s dresses, prints and styling made it different from its competitors— that vibe is sorely missed!

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It’s so glad I’m not alone in my thinking about their new brand identity. Call me a maximalist, but I miss the old days and their vibrant prints. Thanks for sharing Cayla ♥️

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[Men's] It's the quality of clothing for me. When I buy a tee, it feels too worn to wear after less than a year, similar to a Goodfellow tee at Target. The cotton used to feel durable, and never like it had an expiration date. I even questioned if it was my new washer/dryer that's just breaking the fabrics down, but I don't think it is. Mostly, though, I've noticed it in the many shirts that I've bought; Thick, jacket-like button-ups that I can wear without washing (like a jacket!) for a while. But the moment I put it through a gentle cycle, it looks extremely ratty. The style has been diluted, but so has the quality. Bummer, because I really thought they were now a step up from J. Crew Men's in both style & durability.

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It is such a shame when the quality goes downhill. You'll be pleased to know that there are hundreds of people just like you on twitter who feel exactly the same. Hopefully with enough loud voices, they will make the appropriate changes and turn things around!

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Agreed on the quality overall! Back in the day I could just step in and know that I was paying premium but nowadays I have to check every single tag to see what I’m getting. Unfortunately it’s mostly polyester.

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As a Madewell fan since the beginning, I loved this read. I have found myself increasingly detached from the brand in the last 4-5 years because I find the pieces read boring. I’m uninspired by their pieces and styling. However Gracie Abrams as the proposed new muse is BRILLIANT. I’m closer in age to Alexa Chung but the recent collaboration with her was a snooze. They need to bring a POV into their lines again.

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Thank you, Kelly. It was a fun piece to write and it’s comforting to hear that there are others out there who agree with my sentiments, especially about Gracie. I’m still rooting for them to turn things around. Fingers crossed something changes in the near future 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼

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such a snooze, I was excited but then so disappointed when I saw the collection.

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I'd never heard of Madewell before the first Alexa Chung collaboration and it was the 'can't quite afford Isabel Marant but still wants to look a bit elevated on a budget' label. Like what Doen is now but less expensive and less frilly.

I agree that this round of Chung collaboration seems muted and dull. But I also think that's a result of Madewell behind the scenes watering things down, not Alexa - her ongoing Barbour collaboration has the spark and twist you'd expect from her designs despite Barbour being far more traditional as a brand, so she's clearly still got it, age notwithstanding. Also this is going to be unpopular to say but Gracie Abrams does not strike me as having a personal style or even a distinctive look? But enough followers+the right stylist can solve that problem I suppose.

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Thanks, Lily. It’s interesting to hear your thoughts on Alexa’s other collaborations. Just checked out her Barbour collab and immediately am eyeing the ‘Amy Quilted Jacket’. What a stunner!

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Daughter (27) and I (60) have been Madewell customers for years. It was always so hard to decide what to walk out with because we loved everything. Just walking into the store used to put a smile on our faces because everything was so fun, flattering and pretty. Now we don’t even go to the store because there’s nothing for either of us. Cropped-top everything, Harlow fat-pants and hooker-short dresses have got to be the worst things they’ve ever come up with….and they just keep this formula on repeat now. I have no idea who is buying the stuff because you don’t even see people out and about wearing the clothes anymore. That new AC collab release is laughable. An over priced western style shirt in five different materials-bfd.

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Sounds like your daughter, you and myself experienced similar experiences at Madewell in the good ol’ days having a hard deciding what to buy because we all wanted EVERYTHING! Hopefully this recent formula you are describing is on its way out, fingers and toes crossed 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼.

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Very good read! My first post I received as a subscriber ! This is exactly the type of work I want to do

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Thanks, Imiyah! I’ve spent my entire career as a merchandiser and it is truly the most fulfilling role and work. I love that I get to balance my left brain and right brain - analytical with a dash of creativity 🙂

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Imagine if they could have gotten Emma chamberlain though, that could have been major. Since she’s been outspoken about her transition from quirky to minimal personal style that could be a great way to introduce the Madewell brand shift - from young adult to mature woman

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Interesting take Maureen! I love the idea if Madewell continues to cater to the minimal asethetic in their designs to feature Emma Chamberlain - she would be the perfect representation.

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I agree, Madewell got boring.

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Though I do like my white linen Harlow pants.

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There are definitley some hidden gems within the assortment and the Harlow pants are one of their staples that are great. They need more gems and hopefully with enough customers wanting this, things can change for the better.

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As soon as you mentioned the miss of the Alexa Chung collab I immediately thought “Gracie Abrams would’ve been perfect.” Then I kept scrolling and let out a cheer. This is so spot on. I go into the store often and am left disappointed- the knitwear is especially horrible in quality lately. The ONE area where I think they do shine is their handbags and accessories. They’re hitting it out of the park there IMO and agree with you they should incorporate them into the styling more! Great read.

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Glad to hear we are aligned on Gracie Abrams, she’s awesome both musically and stylistically for Madewell 🙂. I agree with you on their accessories, some great finds at affordable prints points too, it’s a shame they don’t showcase them more!

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As a former JCrew intern (way back when Mickey was still around!), this resonated so much. Madewell used to be so cool with so much personality! The recent releases were basically a copy of Club Monaco, COS… with no POV.

Thank you for this spot on and super interesting analysis.

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Thanks, Xue! Your comment means a lot coming from a fellow J.Crew employee ♥️. I’m hopeful they can turn things around. Time will well….

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This was so good. Although as a 42 year old I bristled at the “geriatric millennial” reference lol. But agree they have lost their way and need a major realignment

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Thanks, Sogole! We’re all ‘geriatric millennials’ at heart 😂.

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So good!!

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Thanks, Laura!

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THE WAY THAT ALEXA CHUNG COLLAB LIVES RENT FREE IN MY MIND ALL THESE YEARS LATER. Talk about lasting impact. I used to work at Madewell at its peak and agree that putting together complete looks is deeply in the brand's DNA. I also feel like there has been a deep drop off in the quality of the materials used. Back in 2013, spending $85 on a button up shirt as a recent college grad felt financially significant, but I would save and spend it because I could count on the quality. But Madewell has gone down the road of most fast fashion, with disposable trends and garment quality that just doesn't hold up to more than a year of wear.

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Gabby, please tell me you bought the velvet hot pants from her first collaboration and that they have remained in your closet all these years! I could not agree more with you about spending $85 on a button-down shirt in 2013 - we considered these our "investment" pieces back in the day and were so thankful that they held up wear after wear. It is such a disappointment that they have gone down a new road of disposable trends and quality.

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Sadly I never bought the velvet pants! 😭 I was busy collecting all the boxy oversized tees (remember those? I think it was a collaboration with a skateboard apparel company? I must google it.)

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That makes two of us! I guess I'll be spending my day scouring the internet or Poshmark to find these puppies 😂 😂 😂 Don't remember the name of the skateboard collab, but when you find, please share!

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As an avid Madewell shopper for years, it now has turned into a basics place for me. There was a good year or two in there where I didn't buy much at all except denim. But now I'm back but looking at recent purchases, it's just mostly tees and basics I'm adding to my collection. Agree that Gracie Abrams should be the new it girl, just adore her!

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Isn't Gracie Abrams divine?!? I hope you caught her on SNL this past weekend—if not, go watch her performances on YouTube ASAP; her voice, stage presence, and especially her outfit choices were STUNNING. Ugh, if only she had been wearing her "Madewell collab". We can dream, right?

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One of my favorite SNL episodes! She was fantastic

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