Madewell: How a Beloved Brand Lost Its Way

New Style Direction, Familiar Collaborations, and Updated Sustainability Efforts are Diluting Madewell's Original Appeal

I was wandering Lower Fifth Ave in New York City a couple of weeks ago to do research for work, and I stepped into the new Madewell flagship. I was eager to check out their Fall arrivals and find inspiration. However, I was taken aback by how the once-vibrant brand—the golden child of J.Crew Group—now feels subdued. The charm that used to define Madewell seems to have faded; it is now replaced by a surprising lineup that lacks the creativity I once deeply admired.

Some might say: “Hold up, didn’t you used to work for J. Crew? Are you an old disgruntled employee?!” And the answer is “yes, I used to work for J. Crew, and ‘no,’ I am not disgruntled.” I still follow J.Crew and Madewell regularly and hope for everyone’s success at the company. With that said, I couldn’t shake my feelings, so I went to the internet to see if others felt the same.

I easily uncovered a Reddit thread that started two months ago with over 75 comments. In it, customers expressed their recent disappointment and offered other readers suggestions for where to shop elsewhere. These Redditors echoed my sentiment that Madewell no longer has the spark it once deeply coveted.

In my observation, Madewell has stumbled recently while trying to form a new brand identity. A redemption arc is possible, but they need a multi-channel strategic approach to reignite their appeal and restore their former dominance in the contemporary market.

Lost in Transition: A Styling Misstep

Let’s begin with the clothes. With the recent transition to Steven Cateron as the new Creative Director—who previously shaped collections at Rebecca Taylor, Club Monaco, and Theory—Madewell is embarking on a different direction. Today’s fashion landscape has shifted towards minimalism and quiet luxury, marking a departure from the key elements that once defined Madewell. This season’s collection marks Cateron’s first full release and a disappointing foray into an already oversaturated minimalist landscape.

Historically, the brand was celebrated for its playful prints, unique embroideries, and laid-back, cool-girl, tomboy aesthetic. Early collections featured a distinct charm that resonated deeply with many customers. In my early 20s, I’d spend a good chunk of my paycheck every time a new collection dropped. However, the new collection seems to lean more heavily into streamlined silhouettes and subdued palettes, alienating longtime fans.

The collage I’ve created below will help highlight these exact styling missteps.

The Fall 2013 Collection showcases a complete outfit bursting with style. It features layers of outerwear, sweaters, and button-down shirts, all topped off with stylish hats, shoes, jewelry, and handbags. It celebrates bold pops of color and a rich variety of textured fabrics, including tweed, leather, denim, and Ponte. This eclectic mix creates a dynamic and fashionable look that captures the essence of layering: a characteristic of the colder months that fashion lovers relish.

vs.

The Fall 2024 Collection starkly contrasts its predecessor, emphasizing simplicity with minimal layering. Accessories are notably absent, and the overall aesthetic revolves around muted tones and denim. This basic approach highlights a more subdued style, focusing on stock pieces rather than the fullness of multiple textures that come with layered outfits.

[A noticeable contrast between the old and new collection]

How to Pivot Effectively

Madewell has a prime opportunity to elevate its ad campaigns by showcasing accessories with layered looks like outerwear and sweaters over button-downs. While some may say that a brand needs to evolve because they can’t lean on the 2013 aesthetic forever, the key is balance. Highlighting complete outfits can drive impulse purchases. Instead of overwhelming the consumer with hats and bags, focus on a bold statement necklace, earrings, and belted jeans. Emphasizing accessories is essential for boosting sales and enhancing brand appeal because the complete look is part of Madewell’s brand DNA. A cohesive, stylish presentation will resonate with customers and evoke the nostalgia they crave.

While nostalgia is tempting, it's not always the winning formula.

An Oversight in Evolution: The Impact of Collaborations

In the early aughts, Alexa Chung emerged as a fashion icon, known for her eclectic and effortlessly chic style. With her signature tousled hair, vintage-inspired outfits, and a penchant for mixing high and low fashion, she quickly became a favorite on the fashion scene. She was all over MTV and at exclusive events capturing attention with her it-girl vibe. Her influence grew as she collaborated with brands like Madewell, which solidified her status as a trendsetter who effortlessly blends whimsy with sophistication.

Madewell’s collaborations with Alexa Chung were game-changers. She perfectly embodied the brand's identity with her vintage-inspired, playful looks seamlessly aligning with Madewell's vibe. This resulted in timeless, easy-to-wear pieces that felt chic and unforced. The partnership not only elevated Madewell’s profile but also attracted a younger audience seeking stylish yet accessible fashion. This solidified Madewell’s reputation for modern takes on classic styles.

But that was then, and this is now.

It’s 2024. Imagine you’re sitting in Madewell's boardroom, brainstorming ways to ignite buzz and create a viral moment. The person at the team’s top of mind? A unanimous choice: Alexa Chung. Her deep connection to the brand's original spark could reignite its authentic spirit while maturing the brand’s identity. However, at 41, Alexa Chung has lost the edge: some even refer to her as a “geriatric millennial.” While nostalgia may be appealing, she has outgrown Madewell’s target demographic of ages 18 to 24. Understandably, the collection is rooted in denim—Madewell’s strong suit—but the excitement is missing.

It would have been a “no-brainer” to draw inspiration from the old lineup as a throwback, modernizing the silhouettes while introducing a fresh aesthetic to a new population of Gen Zs. Instead, the once-popular crushed velvet hot pants have been replaced with a sea of basics. The ad campaign feels stark and the styling is confusing: it lacks the vibrance that once gave clout to the brand. With prices ranging from $128 to $850, it feels unjustified when similar items are available at H&M for a fraction of the cost.

[Who’s wearing a bralette to the office?]

An Effective New Muse

If not Alexa Chung, then who? Madewell needs a fresh face to truly capture the current zeitgeist. Fresh off her role as the opening act for Taylor Swift’s epic Eras Tour, Gracie Abrams is emerging as the next it-girl of her generation. With 3.6M followers, she's not quite a household name yet, but that’s about to change. Imagine her dressed head-to-toe in her Madewell collab on tour, with concertgoers snapping photos and eager to emulate her stylish outfits as they exit the arena. Her influence is poised to inspire a wave of fashion followers seeking that effortless cool aesthetic.

[The new Madewell muse]

I also haven't forgotten about you, male readers. A lot has changed since Alexa Chung first stepped onto the scene for Madewell. The brand has since launched a dedicated men's line, evolving its identity to include stylish options for guys.

While the men's line recently featured Aaron Levine, a product guru behind Abercrombie’s success, he feels out of touch with the youthful energy the brand should seek. Enter Jayson Tatum, the Boston Celtics star with over +7.2M followers and a historic world championship fresh under his belt. His influence and appeal could elevate the brand's profile, boost sales in the men's collection, and create significant buzz, attracting a younger audience eager for stylish, contemporary pieces.

[Old vs. New]

When launching a collaboration like those discussed above, it's crucial for the collection to maintain a prominent in-store presence to boost excitement and sales. Introducing a new idea shortly after can dilute the collaboration and confuse customers about what is most important to buy.

A Confused Mission: Balancing a Sustainable Brand Identity

As soon as I entered the Lower Fifth flagship, a prominent display of eclectic pieces caught my attention. However, I was surprised to discover that the items weren't from Madewell, but rather vintage Chloé, Celine, and Isabel Marant. I expected to see the Alexa Chung collaboration front and center, but it had been pushed to the back of the store. This left me confused, and I’m sure other customers feel the same: Why promote other labels when a new fall collection just launched?

In early October, Madewell partnered with luxury vintage e-tailer Reluxe Fashion to introduce 550 pre-loved designer pieces online and curated trunk shows in select stores across NYC, Washington D.C., Austin, and Los Angeles. Glossy publication shares that the purpose of this collaboration “aligns [Madewell] with sustainability-focused companies and causes, and retailers prioritizing in-store experiences."

In the fast-paced world of fashion, where trends shift seasonally and consumer desires are fueled by constant novelty, the industry often contributes to overconsumption. Madewell, a brand known for its sustainable initiatives, seeks to balance trendiness with responsible production practices. However, as Madewell expands on its sustainability initiatives, it risks diluting its core identity. Juggling too many sustainability strategies may obscure the clarity that resonates with consumers. The challenge lies in maintaining a focused mission that reflects its essence instead of spreading itself too thin. While sustainability is important, a lack of clear priorities centered on the brand —rather than other luxury brands—can diminish its impact.

There are other ways to ignite the in-store experience and elaborate on existing sustainable strategies.

Strengthening the In-Store Experience

Madewell already focuses its commitment to sustainability through its “Do Well Recycle” program, which offers store credit for traded-in jeans. This initiative has recycled 1.5 million pieces of denim, created 3.2 million square feet of insulation, diverted 801 tons of waste, and achieved a 25% reduction in carbon emissions from secondhand purchases. By promoting a closed-loop cycle, it reduces waste while building customer loyalty.

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Rather than launching a new sustainability campaign with Reluxe Fashion, Madewell can build on the success of “Do Well Recycle” to deepen engagement.

Two powerful sustainable in-store activation ideas:

1. A denim makeover ‘Project Runway’ contest will be held at Madewell's NYC flagship on 5th Avenue. Contestants will have two hours to repurpose old Madewell denim to create runway-ready looks for a fashion show.

2. Limited-edition products made from repurposed Madewell jeans will be sold exclusively at the top 10 Madewell locations across the U.S.

Both strategies maintain clear and powerful brand messages, staying true to Madewell's roots by focusing solely on the brand and the strength of sustainability.

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As Madewell charts a new course, I want to know:

• What do you think of their redefined brand identity?

• Are their newly styled ad campaigns, old and familiar collaborations, and luxury sustainability initiatives overshadowing the charm that once made Madewell special?

• Can the brand strike a balance between its heritage and contemporary trends to reclaim its vibrant spirit?

Only time will tell. Share your thoughts in the comments below.