The Kitten Heel Goes a Long Way
Not quite flat, not quite stiletto. The little heel is just right.
The fashion industry loves extremes.
You’re either team athleisure or won’t leave the house without a crisp, tailored shirt. Your go-to outfit is either a monochromatic sea of neutrals or an unapologetic burst of color from head to toe. You love sleek silhouettes or can’t help but embrace voluminous bubble hems.
And that’s just apparel.
Footwear follows the same formula. Some swear by platforms (hello, fellow 5’2 -ers), others won’t stray from flats (no shame in keeping things grounded). The sneakerheads. The stiletto die-hards. Same playbook, different category.
But step into the awkward middle, and things get a lot more interesting.
The kitten heel lives in the in-between.
Quiet. Stubborn. Often overlooked.
She’s never fully in or fully out. She’s not chasing trends — she’s outlasting them. A perennial merchandising contradiction: too refined for the maximalist, too peculiar for the minimalist. Yet designers and editors can’t resist rewriting her story every few seasons, pushing her back onto runways, into lookbooks, and onto retail floors… and, just maybe, into your closet.
To truly understand her staying power, you have to start with her soft launch.
The OG Training (W)Heels
The kitten heel wasn’t always so misunderstood. Standing between 1.5 to 2 inches, she was first marketed in the 1950s as a demure stepping stone to stilettos — a way to ease young women into more adult footwear. Never one to make a grand entrance (even at cotillion), she played her part quietly.
For those who came of age seeing it as the shoe you wore before you were ready to stomp through life, PurseBlog editor Kaitlin Serio captures the tension perfectly in her article In Praise of the Kitten Heel:
“Back then, the kitten heel felt like a consolation prize, a less stylish version of the shoes I actually wanted to wear but thought I couldn’t, as I was already towering over the boys at the school dance.”
Serio’s reflection nails it — but for me, it’s the opposite. I’ve never had the chance to tower over anyone, which is probably why I spent years leaning on platforms for the extra (confidence) boost. But that changed the moment I started embracing the midi silhouette. The gown was never made for me in the first place, my ankles were always meant to be shown (and pleased).
That’s where the kitten heel has me coming around. I’m 40. These days, my shoes reflect my age, my comfort, and yes, a post-COVID reality. And it’s not just me. Brands are taking a second look, too.
The shift started with the top tier.
Luxury’s Purring
Baby hasn’t been put in the corner — she’s all over the luxury market. Labels like Prada, Miu Miu, Gucci, Loewe, and Louis Vuitton have returned to kitten territory, offering fresh takes: sculptural heels, slingbacks, square toes, loafer hybrids, and more.
It’s no longer a shoe you grow into — it’s one you grow toward. (Just don’t be surprised if the price tag stands a little taller than the heel.) Think of them like a fine wine. Today’s version is less about politeness, more about posture. It says:
I’ll show up. I’ll walk five blocks. I’ll still look like I thought about it — and I’m not even trying.
But just because something’s back on the runway doesn’t mean it deserves a spot in your closet.
Low Lift, High Impact
If you’re team platform, this might feel like a step down. If you’re team flat, it might feel like a reach. But that’s the beauty of the kitten heel — she lives in the middle on purpose.
Versatility is her strongest suit. The right pair works across your wardrobe and your life. Low enough to walk in for hours. High enough to pull you together — even on the off days.
Now pay attention, extremists. Here comes my sales pitch — brought to you by Pinterest:
For the Athleisure enthusiast, she takes your gym clothes to another level.
For the corporate contender, she’s subtle but packs power for the office.
For the denim devotee, she adds just enough polish to elevate your everyday.
Confession: I haven’t even landed on the exact pair I want to buy this summer. I’m still contemplating (like always). But the more I look, the clearer it becomes. The smartest place to stand might just be the price point in the middle. Pun, FULLY intended.
In the meantime, my browser history has these tabs open… just waiting for that final click. Courtesy of Tony Bianco, Aeyde, and & Other Stories.
Whether you're revisiting the kitten heel or meeting her for the first time, don’t write her off too quickly. Sometimes, the smallest style choices have the most staying power.
Got a pair you swear by? Drop it in the comments.
I’m not the only one thinking about the kitten heel. Here are a few fellow Substackers making strong cases of their own:
gives one of the best roundups of styles, especially after her feet started protesting stilettos.
Three outfit inspos, one humble heel —
makes her case for the kitten pump, boombox in hand.
Meanwhile,
dives into the nipple heel: the barely-there, quietly defiant alternative that’s part protest, part punchline.
If the 2” block heel counts, I’m in!! I do love anything by Aeyde and have my eye on their kitten heel in the Net sale!
I am a kitten heel STAN!!! I love them so so much. I feel like they elevate anything I’m wearing without making it feel too try-hard. Loved your breakdown!!