The Iconic Shirt That Has Transcended Time
125 Years Strong: The Enduring Legacy of the White Button-Down Shirt
Last week, I stumbled upon something that made me pause and appreciate the enduring appeal of classic menswear. Brooks Brothers, the brand synonymous with timeless American style, recently marked the 125th anniversary of their white button-down shirt. It’s incredible how this one garment has not only stood the test of time but also become a wardrobe staple for over a century. From Ivy League prep to red-carpet appearances, the white button-down embodies both effortless sophistication and casual ease.
Let’s be honest: the white button-down shirt isn’t always the most exciting piece in our closets. I’ve spent the last two years searching for the perfect one, often coming up short. It’s understated, frequently overshadowed by flashier trends or louder fashion statements. But there’s something quietly powerful about it — a sharpness and simplicity that makes it the backbone of countless casual and formal outfits. Its rich history, versatility, and ability to evolve without losing its essence have kept it relevant over the years.
As menswear has evolved and seamlessly integrated into womenswear, the white button-down has remained constant. The shirt adapts while always symbolizing what it means to be well-dressed.
A Button-Down Memory Lane
What makes the white shirt so special? It's not just the fabric or the fit — it's the pure, undistracted simplicity that allows it to complement almost anything.
If we trace the origins of the white button-down even further, we find its roots in unexpected places as its evolution goes beyond just menswear. It begins with a historical turning point: Marie Antoinette’s 1783 portrait, where she scandalized royal norms by wearing a simple white blouse made of cotton which was considered the lower-class option. This bold fabric choice disrupted traditions, elevated cotton’s status, and sparked a shift in the fashion industry — setting the stage for the classic white shirt to evolve as a symbol of both rebellion and sophistication. By the late 1800s, the white blouse had transformed into the ‘shirtwaist,’ a more structured, button-down design borrowed from menswear.
It became a symbol of freedom, especially for women. Not only did it mark a break from Victorian constraints, but it also supported the women’s suffrage movement. Over time, the white shirt became an essential piece in both men’s and women’s wardrobes, with designers like Jean Patou and Paul Poiret helping to integrate it into women’s fashion during later parts of the 19th century.
In 1896, Brooks Brothers sparked a style revolution when they found a practical fix for polo players struggling with flapping collars. By 1900, they had redefined menswear with the Polo® Button-Down collar, securing the white button-down’s place as a cornerstone of classic American style. More than a century later, their commitment to craftsmanship ensures this icon remains just as relevant today—proof that true classics never fade, they simply evolve.
Two Shirts For the Ages
The beauty of this shirt lies not just in its initial design but in how it’s been continuously reinterpreted over the years. Brooks Brothers and countless other brands have made subtle updates, like new fits and fabrics, but the core of the design has remained the same: a shirt that transcends seasons, trends, and personal styles.
I’ve come to appreciate this resilience in fashion. It’s easy to get swept up in the season’s hot item, but there’s a level of satisfaction in investing in something that has been tested over time. The white button-down embodies that idea — like a fine wine, it’s an investment that only gets better with age.
Through my research, I’ve discovered two stand-out styles that fit seamlessly into my closet and work with any outfit. My first favorite is the Donna Button-Down Shirt from Classic Six, crafted from 100% cotton with extra-long cuffs, side slits, French seams, grosgrain detailing, and uniquely positioned pearl buttons for a fantastic fit. Founder Diana LoManco has orchestrated the perfect shirt with maximum sophistication, thanks to its longer length, curved hem, and extended cuffs, offering endless styling options and making it the ideal choice for any occasion.
The other is the Ala Shirt by Maria De La Orden (currently sold out, and for good reason). I discovered this shirt a year ago while shopping in Paris. Its unique navy collar adds a creative, classy French girl touch, making it the standout choice for when I need something a bit more special.
Both shirts were a sound investment. I find myself reaching for them time and again because the moment I slip them on, I feel confident, polished, and effortlessly put together.
From Brunch to Black Tie
There’s no one-size-fits-all answer to how to wear the white button-down shirt. For me, it’s all about versatility. Whether I’m going for a business casual look or something more laid-back, it’s one of those pieces that can be dressed up or down with the right styling.
For Casual Days: Pairing a white shirt with leggings is the perfect mix of polished on top and casual on the bottom. Then add a pair of cute running shoes, and you’re good to go. Prefer denim? Swap in your favorite jeans and a pop-colored shoe for a smart casual look that’s perfect for everything from brunch to a day out in the city.
[Note to self, I desperately need an oversized white button-down] For the Office: A well-fitted white shirt under a blazer is a no-brainer; just ask
for all the tips. This combination has an undeniable sharpness, but it never feels overdone. I also love pairing a white shirt with a structured black bottom, like a mini skirt or pleated black pants.
[All three are perfect options for your 9 to 5] For Evening: Don’t be afraid to get creative. The red carpet is full of inspiration for evening looks. Some of my favorite outfits feature white shirts paired with a dramatic sequin or satin skirt. Or take a cue from Keri Russell, who channels menswear with her tuxedo-inspired frock. These are all chef’s kiss looks, perfect for New Year’s Eve.
Always in Style
Here’s to keeping the classics alive. The white button-down shirt is a piece of fashion history that transcends time, evolving with the trends but always staying true to its roots. If you don’t already own one, maybe now’s the time to add one (or two) to your wardrobe. It will never let you down. From brunch to black tie, it’s a piece that always delivers, with the power to make you feel confident, polished, and presentable — no matter the occasion.
For more white button-down inspo, check out these Substack gems:
- provides a stylish guide to getting maximum mileage from this essential piece.
- professes her love for the Oxford from Everlane in classic white and stripes.
- explains why the button-up ultimately falls into two main categories: slim fit and oversized, and gives the perfect logic behind it.
- has shared the budget-friendly button-down option that’s got everyone buzzing.
Love love and thanks for the mention! Obsessed with the navy trim button down and always in awe of your substackers who can dig so deep into the history of a garment. Such a great read!
Next issue: How to keep your white button-down clean? :( I'm not allowed to own white things anymore because they are coffee & sauce magnets