The Case for Marc Jacobs at Chanel: A Bold Vision for the Future
The ideal candidate to reinvigorate Chanel’s iconic designs while preserving its timeless legacy.
My love for infamous fashion designer Marc Jacobs sparked at 13, likely while flipping through a September issue of Vogue at Barnes & Noble in Huntington Beach—when I really should’ve been searching for my high school English reading list. His designs perfectly reflected my budding appreciation for fashion—bold yet approachable, playful yet polished. I admired how he consistently pushed boundaries while staying true to a timeless aesthetic, resonating deeply with my evolving sense of style.
I always dreamed of owning a piece of his magic, and for a milestone birthday, my parents generously surprised me with a Stella handbag—it felt incredibly special. When I moved to New York City, he remained at the top of my list. To this day, he is the designer whose collections I anxiously wait for each season. I count down to the release of his runway images. Marc Jacobs is more than my favorite. He is a forever icon whom I hold near and dear. That's why, when I heard the rumors about him a few weeks ago, I was brimming with excitement.
XOXO, Gossip Girl
Fashion is shifting rapidly with top fashion Creative Director roles changing like a revolving door. This year alone, Sarah Burton moved from Alexander McQueen to Givenchy, and Alessandro Michele left Gucci for Valentino, along with several other notable shifts. However, the position at Chanel remains unfilled after Virginie Viard’s departure. Amid the rumors, Marc Jacobs recently made headlines in an article for WSJ Magazine where he expressed his desire for the vacant position at Chanel. "There’s only one job I want, and I haven’t been asked to do it," Jacobs said. He even asked his friend Sofia Coppola to put in a good word for him. Many, including my biased self and Coppola, share the dream of seeing Jacobs at the helm of Chanel.
There are so many reasons why I believe he is the perfect candidate for the position, so consider this week’s newsletter my 2-minute sales pitch for him to land the interview and, ultimately, the role.
A Legacy of Innovation
Marc Jacobs has proven time and again that he’s not just a designer—he’s an innovator. Season after season, he wipes the canvas clean, continuously turning things on their head and reimagining what fashion can be. His designs never stagnate; they challenge norms, push boundaries, and offer fresh perspectives. Whether through unexpected collections or bold reinventions of classic styles, Jacobs is unafraid to disrupt the status quo. Just look at how he’s transformed the classic polka dot print across multiple seasons by turning it into something new and exciting each time.
His runway shows have consistently been the #1 event during New York Fashion Week for decades which is a true testament to his cultural impact and unwavering influence on the fashion world. Let’s not forget, Marc Jacobs led Louis Vuitton for 16 years, transforming the brand and elevating it to new heights of luxury (more on that later). And if his resume hasn’t impressed you yet, he recently served as the Guest Editor for the November issue of Vogue, showcasing his unmatched creativity and fashion expertise. His curated selections seamlessly blended bold innovation with timeless elegance which further cemented his status as one of the industry's most influential figures.
With each passing year, Jacobs continues to push creative boundaries, delivering new ideas that surpass even his own impressive milestones. This trajectory of innovation makes him perfectly poised to bring his creative genius to Chanel.
A Bold Financial Impact, Step Aside Miu Miu
Let’s assume Marc Jacobs gets the job—he’d enter a fiercely competitive market, with Miu Miu recently establishing itself as a dominant force. In 2023, Miu Miu helped propel Prada’s total sales to €4.7 billion, driven by its appeal to Gen Z and millennials through bold, avant-garde designs and strategic marketing. With a mix of vintage and modern aesthetics, Miu Miu is the go-to for young luxury shoppers, aligning perfectly with digital trends and sustainability.
I believe Marc Jacobs is the ideal candidate to dethrone Miu Miu if he takes the reins at Chanel. During his time at Louis Vuitton, Jacobs elevated the brand from a luggage company to a global luxury powerhouse by increasing LVMH’s fashion and leather goods revenue from €6 billion in 2008 to over €9.8 billion by 2013. His iconic collaborations with Takashi Murakami, Yayoi Kusama, and Stephen Sprouse revolutionized Louis Vuitton by shifting the brand’s focus from its traditional luggage offerings to cutting-edge, collectible luxury pieces. These collaborations transformed its once-functional items into high-fashion, creative expressions which merged art and commerce to reshape Louis Vuitton’s identity as a symbol of modern luxury.
Now imagine what Jacobs could achieve with Chanel’s accessories—reimagining classic designs with his bold, artistic vision. Under his leadership, Chanel’s bags, shoes, and jewelry could reach new heights, combining modern flair with timeless luxury. And the iconic tweed jacket? As a fan of the piece himself, Jacobs could transform it, keeping the classic silhouette while infusing youthful energy, capturing a whole new generation.
A Balancing Act
Marc Jacobs would be walking a fine line in leading Chanel because he would need to balance the brand's core customer base with the desire to attract a younger generation. While Chanel’s long-time patrons value the brand’s timeless elegance and tradition, the younger demographic seeks fresh, innovative approaches that still honor the house’s heritage. If he were to take the reins at Chanel, his challenge would be to push the envelope with bold creativity, infusing youthful energy into the brand while staying rooted in the legacy that Chanel’s loyal customers love. The key will be offering fresh perspectives—like he did with iconic Louis Vuitton accessories—while respecting the sophisticated, timeless aura that defines Chanel’s identity. "Can he do it again?" is indeed the big question on everyone's minds.
The announcement for the role is expected next week, fingers crossed. It’s funny to think that even Marc Jacobs has to go through the interview process—hopefully, they won't take months to give him the response he deserves. Time will tell if he can successfully navigate that challenge at hand, but one thing is clear—Marc Jacobs's track record of blending creativity with commercial success has everyone eagerly awaiting the decision.
Such a good read. Looking forward to a follow up piece.
Hi Evonne! I love your thoughts on this. And yes, Marc is mature enough to take on Chanel and understands all its nuances. It's funny how we agree despite nuances and different favourites.